Three of Tokyo’s Surviving Daimyō Gardens and the Meiji-Jingu Gaien

Japanese spiritualism propounds a oneness between nature and edifice. This harmony lies deep within aesthetics of the culture, and is executed seamlessly in some of Japan’s most prolific and ancient gardens—and no contention could arise in recognition of the vast superiority of Tokyo’s daimyō gardens. During the Edo-era, which was characterized by the strict rule of the Tokugawa shogunate, the daimyō, or feudal lords, were summoned for long periods of time in modern-day Tokyo, and thus would begin to invest in vast estates around the city. These gardens are often associated with the samurai-class which each daimyō had command over groups of warriors. These estates were encapsulated in enchanted gardens which were garrisoned by towering gates and dense shrubbery. Their design was meticulous, taking inspiration from the aesthetics which were in vogue. However, one similarity that reigns true through each is the synergy of practicality and beauty. These gardens contained training grounds, medicinal and vegetable gardens, tea fields and rice paddies. Each garden was a self-sustaining ecosystem, however in execution were beheld like a faerie. 

However, by consequence of rapid industrialization during the western-focused Meiji Restoration, these gardens were uprooted in place of towering structures and railways. The demise of this cultural symbol rings silent for many, but the erasure of such history is a great disservice to the civic community. With images of the sheer beauty of the gardens, it does leave a sour taste when opening your eyes to the current glass-and-steel monoliths erected upon fields of upturned trees. As an ever-growing city, priorities seem to shift from beauty, and more toward an approach to cram as many people into a mega-complex as possible. 

In an eruption of controversy, reports from the summer of 2023 were released indicating that certain redevelopers seek interest in the wide plot of land covered by the Meiji Jingu Gaien. Making ‘use’ of this land, the idea is to erect a commercial center and thereout uproot this vibrant park with so much history and culture. This is truly reminiscent of the destruction of daimyō gardens of olde. Given Meiji Jingu’s iconic status, it begs the question, ‘is any park safe?’ – and by light of this heart-wrenching prospect, the necessity of shining a spotlight on the city’s few specks of green only grows.

Koishikawa Kōrakuen 

Koishikawa Kōrakuen is the oldest daimyō garden in Tokyo and was constructed in 1629 by Tokugawa Yorifusa, the 11th son of Tokugawa Ieyasu. The gardens were christened ‘Koishikawa Kōrakuen” by his son, Tokugawa Mitsukuni, an enthusiast of Chinese classics. With influence from his confucian tutors, ‘Kōrakuen’ is believed to originate from Hanchuen's “Gakoyoroki,” a beloved work of Tokugawa Mitsukuni; “a need for those in power to worry about maintaining power first and then enjoy power on.” Kōrakuen refers to the latter sentiment–to enjoy power later on. The residence was passed along a patrilineal string of inheritance, until its final daimyō, Tokugawa Akitake, who ceded the property to the Meiji Government in 1869, during the shogunate’s demise. 

Every leaf that sprouts from the trees scattered throughout the gardens and every brick that composes each edifice offers such rich history. In 1923, it was designated as a National Historic Site. Now, the gardens can be regarded more akin to a park where people of all ages and interests come to relax. It is also home to the Tokyo Dome, a famous baseball stadium, along with a multipurpose complex, Korakuen Hall. As modern skyscrapers diffuse through the city, Koishikawa Kōrakuen rests with equanimity and the wiseness only earned by age. 

Rikugi-en 

Rikugi-en is regarded as the quintessence of a daimyō garden. It was presided over by Yanagisawa Yoshiyasu of the Minamoto Clan. From a young age, Yoshiyasu served the fifth Shogun, Tokugawa Tsunayoshi, with the utmost fidelity and was regarded as his favorite. In 1695, Tokugawa gave him permission to build the gardens. Yoshiyasu, revered for his learnedness and voracious appetite for literature, named the park ‘Rikugi’ after the six tenets of waka poetry featured in the Kokinwakashū, an imperial anthology from the Heian-era. During the Meiji Restoration, the gardens were neglected causing herbage overgrowth and the dilapidation of the various structures throughout the land. The estate was then acquired and restored by Iwasaki Yotarō, the founder of Mitsubishi, with a focus to reform it into a public oasis. Rikugi-en remained in possession of the corporation until it was donated to the Tokyo government in 1938. In 1953 the Japanese government then designated the gardens as a Place of Scenic Beauty. 

During the spring and autumn, Rikugi-en is characterized by a transcendent beauty. Along the meandering paths that traverse thick woods, pedestrians sauntering through can relish in the beauty of blooming azaleas displaying their unique vibrant pink which complement weeping cherry blossoms in the distance bulwarked by maples that glow auburn during the autumn months. Along the way, they will also encounter old tea houses which serve their beverages at the highest quality. One of these paths include the ‘sasagani no michi path,’ appropriately named after a Sotōri Hime poem focusing on a wish to remain alive for eternity. 

Hama Rikyū Gardens 

Bundled up against the mouth of Sumida river, the Hama Rikyū gardens are characterized by tide pools which flow in from Tokyo Bay. In 1654, Tokugawa Tsunashige received permission from his older brother and then shogun, Tokugawa Iemitsu, to reclaim land from the neighboring bay to build a garden and residence. Posthumously the estate was passed onto Tsunashige’s son who would become the next shogun. Within the confines of the garden, there were flower and medicinal herb gardens, duck ponds used for hunting, along with areas for horseback riding and archery. According to Professor Isoya Shinji of Tokyo University of Agriculture, Hama Rikyū was also the site where famous scientist Aoki Konyō performed sweet potato cultivation trials, effectively introducing the vegetable to Japan. The gardens remained in imperial possession until 1946, when they were bestowed onto the public as a gift from the imperial family. 

With scrupulous care under the imperial staff, the Hama Rikyū gardens preserve their beauty and mystique, with many visitors entering to view the cherry blossoms during the spring alongside the Shioiri-no-ike tidal pond. Further, poised near the entrance there is a 300-year old pine tree which has seen the full historic timeline of this magnificent park. Unlike the previous two daimyō gardens, Hama Rikyū has barely been sullied by the modern touch, attracting those seeking a peaceful afternoon, or who wish to visit traditional teahouses.

Takeaways:

The role of a citizen within a city is to defend our civic privileges. The loss of these gardens translates into a loss of culture. And with rapid industrialization, priorities tend to be shifted and forgotten. The fate of the numerous uprooted daimyō gardens throughout Tokyo since the Edo-era seems to transpire within the Meiji Jingu Gaien which boasts the magnificent Meiji Shrine, along with meticulously selected flora, historic monuments and idyllic trails beloved by tourists and locals alike. However, in protection of the smaller lands throughout Tokyo, we should ensure that no tree is axed, and no blade of grass is plucked.